I love twin needles, when I am sewing knits(and wovens). They are an easy way to achieve professional hems and necklines. They are a small investment that can take your knits to a whole new level. Some people may think it takes to much time to set them up, but I think it completely worth it.
How does a double needle work?
A double needle produces 2 parallel lines of closely spaced stitching on the right side of the fabric while producing a zigzag style stitch on the wrong side.
How to use it for a hem or finishing a neckline of sleeves?
Simply turn up hem or turn under neckline the desired or directed amount and stitch throughout both layers from the right side. I recommending at least a 1/4 inch seam allowance for hems and finishes. This has proven to help the seam lay flat. You can do it closer when doing decorative topstitching, like on pocket edges.
Why is it great for knit?
Double needles for neckline and arm finishing, as well as, hems are so great for knits because the seams will stretch. If you use a straight stitch the thread will break when the fabric is stretched. Zigzag works great but does not achieve that professional look you get with a double needle.
Here is what you need to know about using a double needle.
- Twin needles come in 3 sizes. (see picture above) If you only want to buy 1 size, I suggest the 4/80. This is the one I use the most. It looks great on necklines and hems. 2/80 is too small for most hems, but makes a great neckline. The 6/100 is too big for most necklines, but makes a nice hem.
- You need 2 upper spools of thread. Don’t worry you do not need two 2 whole spools or 2 mini spools. You can easily create the second spool needed on a bobbin.
- Some sewing machines, specifically digital machines, have a setting for double needles. Please check your machine and make sure you have it set.OnmyPaff there is a button to press and on my Brother there is in the stitch panel. On more basic machines (which are equally as great!) there may not be a twin needle setting.
- Increase your stitch length to 4. This helps to prevent the knit from stretching while you are sewing.
- Like other needles, twin needles must be replaces after a certain time, but when just using them for finishing garments you will get a significant use out of each one.